I don’t like Canon’s Auto White Balance. I’m not saying that it’s wrong, I’m saying that I don’t like it. I usually like the light balance to be warmer.
- There’s never an exact right white balance. Even when using a color meter, like the old Minolta or now Kenko’s.
- White balance is the reading of the white color and adjusting everything around it. The problem is what’s the right white? An 87% white, a 92% white, or the 18% grey card?
- CCD and CMOS sensors react differently by model and brand to the white balance. My Canon 7D is cooler than what I’m used to.
- I know about the various contraptions for getting the “right” white balance like ExpoDisk…
|Color Temp||Light Source|
|2000k||Twilight before sunrise|
|2500k - 3000k||Household incandescent lights|
|3000k - 4000k||Clear sunrise / sunset|
|4000k - 5000k||Fluorescent bulbs, cool white - “daylight”|
|5000k - 5500k||Small flash|
|5500k - 6000k||Studio flash|
|6000k - 7000k||Bright sunlight|
|7000k - 9000k||Overcast|
|9000k - 11000k||Rain… clear day in mountains|
|11000k - 20000k||Overcast… snow in the mountains|
I set my white balance to Daylight and that’s it! The colours are usually a little warmer and I will adjust if necessary in Lightroom, much less than ½ of the time. I don’t mess around with the white balance. RAW files are only affected by:
- Shutter Speed
And that’s it!. Nothing else. The white balance is just a flag to indicate to the processing software, in my case Lightroom, how it should process it.
- If colour accuracy in required, I have a grey card that I use in the photo.
- The real problem is not establishing the WB but setting the white balance when there are 2 type of lighting involved, like fluorescent and incandescent.